We begin our third regular week in Delhi--if there can be a regular week here! Today was a Muslim holiday (Muharram), the start of the Islamic year. The children's school and the university were closed. Unlike Republic Day last Friday, most people went to work as usual today and shops were open. Adelaide and I shopped in the morning, then were joined by John to visit the government-run craft emporia that represent each state in India. Jewels, rugs, silks...it's all so tempting!
On our drive home after the Fulbright tea, we encountered a Muharram parade featuring colorful crepe paper and papier mache "mosques" being carried through the street and young men waving, whacking, and wielding wooden poles. That seems a bit odd, since fighting is forbidden in the month of Muharram.
The other consequence of Muharram for us was that the beer and wine store was closed. India is the least alcohol-oriented society I've seen among countries that permit the drinking of alcohol. There just aren't any bars except in the major 5-star hotels. The legal drinking age is 25! American college students might be discouraged from studying overseas in India by this law...but then, if the American laws don't prevent them from getting their hands on a beer, India's law won't either.
Owen continues to have fun playing soccer in the local park with boys who miraculously appear there when he shows up with his ball. I don't think he talks much with them, but he does play out there long and hard. It's definitely the world's sport.
Tuesday, January 30, 2007
Saturday, January 27, 2007
Our Saturday Outing: Humayun's Tomb
This Saturday we managed to pry Owen off the comfy leather sofa and away from the plasma screen TV and go on our planned outing: Humayun's Tomb. We learned that not only is it a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but so is the Qtub Minar, last Saturday's destination. Two World Heritage Sites in two weeks! Humayun was the second Moghul ruler of Hindustan in the early 1500s. The first was Babur, who is now buried in Kabul.
The tomb is notable because it is an early version of the architectural style which would 100 years later be perfected in the Taj Mahal. It is a blend of Persian and Indian designs and motifs. Instead of pure white marble (the Taj), it is built principally of red sandstone with white and black marble embellishments.
The site was not crowded at all when we arrived. We paid the visitors fee, 250 rupees, instead of the locals' fee, 10 rupees. We approached the site through a series of courtyards and gardens. At one side tomb area, a retired history professor offered to give us a five minute description and explanation with a tip as payment. He was interesting and fast talking, and apparently quite accurate.
When we arrived at the main courtyard, another guide volunteered to accompany us. He took us all through the building and added a lot to our understanding. He also took a picture of the four of us at a nice spot. At the end, he wasn't happy with the 120 rupees tip we offered (he asked for US dollars, and I offered him $3, which is about 120 rupees). He did take it in the end, no surprise there.
After taking in as much as we desired, we left the site, stopping in the parking lot to buy two peacock feather fans. We paid half the original asking price, and presumably could've bargained harder.
We then chose to go back to the Khan Market to a restaurant we'd enjoyed during our first weekend. It has eclectic nouvelle cuisine--American, Mediterranean, Asian fusion--that's a nice break from Indian fare. We enjoyed appetizers, mango/yogurt smoothies, main dishes, and three delectable desserts. Interestingly, a young woman at the table behind ours recognized me from the Fulbright orientation meeting in late June. She is a Fulbright student scholar, a recent graduate of Yale. We invited her (Molly) to join us for dessert, and gained lots of tips from her since she's been here since October. We'll see her again this week at a Fulbright event.
After lunch we bought Owen a soccer ball and Adelaide a pair of lavishly embroidered leather flats, so we all went home quite happy. Owen worked up a game of soccer in our small local park and game home sweaty and happy two hours later!
We are doing our best to see all that Delhi has to offer while planning our travels farther afield in February and March.
Hope you all had a great Saturday, too.
The tomb is notable because it is an early version of the architectural style which would 100 years later be perfected in the Taj Mahal. It is a blend of Persian and Indian designs and motifs. Instead of pure white marble (the Taj), it is built principally of red sandstone with white and black marble embellishments.
The site was not crowded at all when we arrived. We paid the visitors fee, 250 rupees, instead of the locals' fee, 10 rupees. We approached the site through a series of courtyards and gardens. At one side tomb area, a retired history professor offered to give us a five minute description and explanation with a tip as payment. He was interesting and fast talking, and apparently quite accurate.
When we arrived at the main courtyard, another guide volunteered to accompany us. He took us all through the building and added a lot to our understanding. He also took a picture of the four of us at a nice spot. At the end, he wasn't happy with the 120 rupees tip we offered (he asked for US dollars, and I offered him $3, which is about 120 rupees). He did take it in the end, no surprise there.
After taking in as much as we desired, we left the site, stopping in the parking lot to buy two peacock feather fans. We paid half the original asking price, and presumably could've bargained harder.
We then chose to go back to the Khan Market to a restaurant we'd enjoyed during our first weekend. It has eclectic nouvelle cuisine--American, Mediterranean, Asian fusion--that's a nice break from Indian fare. We enjoyed appetizers, mango/yogurt smoothies, main dishes, and three delectable desserts. Interestingly, a young woman at the table behind ours recognized me from the Fulbright orientation meeting in late June. She is a Fulbright student scholar, a recent graduate of Yale. We invited her (Molly) to join us for dessert, and gained lots of tips from her since she's been here since October. We'll see her again this week at a Fulbright event.
After lunch we bought Owen a soccer ball and Adelaide a pair of lavishly embroidered leather flats, so we all went home quite happy. Owen worked up a game of soccer in our small local park and game home sweaty and happy two hours later!
We are doing our best to see all that Delhi has to offer while planning our travels farther afield in February and March.
Hope you all had a great Saturday, too.
Friday, January 26, 2007
Morning Running
I've always preferred first-thing-in-the-morning runs, but our current schedule doesn't permit that. However, I was able to work from home on Wednesday, and today is a holiday--Republic Day--so I have been able to ride to the park and run early in the morning twice this week. I've discovered an new aspect of Delhi: the morning exercise rituals. In Green Park, Deer Park, and Rose Park (three adjoining areas) the grounds are filled with morning exercisers. The majority are vigorously walking with a partner or two, and they're bundled up against the early morning chill (45-50 degrees!). Many groups are involved in yoga--sun salutations, poses, stances, and stretches. Still others are meditating, some in the classic "Ohm" position, some seated on benches, all with their eyes closed. Some of these are pushing on various pressure points on their heads and faces.A few small groups of men are engaged in calisthentics and warmup drills. And in several spots, couples and foursomes are playing badminton, a favorite Indian sport.
As you might imagine, I'm in the small minority of runners. I infer that Indians don't look favorably on heavy breathing or perspiration. Who can blame them, with the type of temperatures they have here 6 months per year. So they look at me as if I'm an unusal circus performer doing stunts in their placid park. 
Yet, running in the parks in the early morning is a delight. Delhi has a light fog every morning which lingers especially in the parks. This particular set of parks is filled with eucalyptus trees, bougainevillea, lantana, and rich green foliage. Parrots, peacocks, and other birds fly and call among the trees. Most striking of all is the quietness: there seems to be an unwritten rule that there is no talking in the park in the early hours. All those couples and groups excercising together do so silently (well, an exclamation or two comes from the badminton players). The result is a green, misty oasis in the midst of a city of 14 million.
What pleasure!
What pleasure!
Thursday, January 25, 2007
India is One of the World's Most Rapidly Growing Economies
India like China has been enjoying rapid economic growth as a result of economic reforms begun in the late 1980s, and that is expected to continue and to accelerate. A recently released report by Goldman Sachs indicates that incomes in India will quadruple between now and 2020--an annual average growth rate of 11 percent! By 2050 India is expected to be the world's second largest economy, ahead of the United States and behind China.
Wednesday, January 24, 2007
Festivities in our Enclave
Lately there have been a few musical events in the evening at a building on one corner of our small square. Singers and musicians have performed in a tent outside the building for a few hours, and neighbors have strolled by to have a look and a listen. Inside the tent there have been carpets and cushions for the guests and an array of statues of deities displayed on the stage.
Last night, a marching band in crimson and white regalia played on that corner for an hour before we walked out to dinner. (A dinner, which, by the way, was tasty, freshly made, served with courteous service, and cost the four of us less than $10 including the bottled water.) As we returned, the marching band was setting forth accompanied by six or eight young boys about 10 years old holding aloft lighted electric chandeliers, a group of dancing celebrators in fine attire, and capping it all off, a prospective groom. The groom was dressed in white with a Mogul style turban and spangled shoes. He and his two very young groomsmen rode in a white carriage covered with white flowers and pulled by two horses. A rather noisy truck drove behind the carriage, providing the power for the chandeliers.
These two encounters with wedding parties thus far in India may have set Adelaide's expectations of her future wedding a bit too high!
You never, ever know what you'll see in the streets of India--good or bad. The great majority of the time though, it's something colorful, exotic, and unexpected.
Last night, a marching band in crimson and white regalia played on that corner for an hour before we walked out to dinner. (A dinner, which, by the way, was tasty, freshly made, served with courteous service, and cost the four of us less than $10 including the bottled water.) As we returned, the marching band was setting forth accompanied by six or eight young boys about 10 years old holding aloft lighted electric chandeliers, a group of dancing celebrators in fine attire, and capping it all off, a prospective groom. The groom was dressed in white with a Mogul style turban and spangled shoes. He and his two very young groomsmen rode in a white carriage covered with white flowers and pulled by two horses. A rather noisy truck drove behind the carriage, providing the power for the chandeliers.
These two encounters with wedding parties thus far in India may have set Adelaide's expectations of her future wedding a bit too high!
You never, ever know what you'll see in the streets of India--good or bad. The great majority of the time though, it's something colorful, exotic, and unexpected.
Tuesday, January 23, 2007
Personal Testimony for a New Diet
We recently received the following testimonial with our copy of The Times of India: "PESPI diet give most necessary boost to health having its cleaning power as Soft drink defined by Swami Ram Dev flushing dirtiest filthy Toilets, is not incorrect. Whereas myself discovered the way to live longer than 76 yrs. by God given blessing for me for my living over 100 yers. by my daily drinking PEPSI diet is helpful for me after adopting pepsi as a health drink discovered by me. This secret of living long healthy by me gave me power to work very hard at this age of 76 yrs. by overcoming all types of stresses of Export business & my family affairs, after my earning many Crors paid Income Tax over 50 lacs in 1996 by Exports to Gulf Countries by my Renowned company is offering big deals in 2007. Exporter (Senior Citizen) Mr. O. P. Arora
Now you know.
Now you know.
Monday, January 22, 2007
Sunday, January 21, 2007
A Day at the Qtub Minar
This Saturday we jumped in two autorickshaws and puttered south through the streets of Delhi to the Qtub Minar. It's the site of the tallest minaret in India, and was built in the 1100's and early 1200's to celebrate Islam's victory over the last Hindu kingdom. The Muslim ruler decided to reuse existing Hindu and Buddhist structures to build his victory tower. He had to deface some graven images (by whacking off
their sandstone faces) but many decorative details remained and many were added. 
It was another sunny, mild day in Delhi. We're enjoying the weather while we can--heat is on the way.Friday, January 19, 2007
The Delight is in the Details
Most of what we see as we move around Delhi is very mundane and ordinary, but when you look closely, the small details of daily life are delightfully different. The street sweepers use brooms made of twigs, not motorized blowers like the groundskeepers at UA. My office is swept and dusted not by a high-powered Hoover but by a woman wielding a duster that looks like it’s made of a horse’s tail. Her mop is a towel attached to the end of a pole.
Around JNU, the construction workers wear plastic sandals with socks, not steel-toed safety boots. The builders push to mortar into the bricks by hand, not with a trowel. The female construction workers (in saris and sandals) deliver the sand and mortar to the bricklayers via basketloads on their heads, not wheelbarrows.
On every street corner and sidewalk and in every neighborhood, kiosks sell all the items one might find in a convenience store. Here, though, they sell for pennies instead of inflated 7/11 prices. Fruit and vegetable carts are piled high with fresh, brightly colored foods. The carrots here are red, not orange! A bag of carrots and tomatoes cost us just 25 cents.
At the lunch hour--2:00pm, not 12:00 pm--men stop for a quick lunch beside the road, eating a small bowl of vegetable curry instead of a NY hot dog. Each man in the group eating lunch at the roadside vendor's cart drinks directly from a pitcher of water by holding it above their lips and pouring it right in.
Men and women walk to work in the morning wrapped in shawls or draped in light blankets instead of fitted sweaters, coats, or jackets. The look of many layers and colors of draped fabric is so appealing to the eye, and seems to practical where the temperature varies a great deal. How did I ever think of leaving the house during winter without a wrap?
Milk is delivered right to our door in plastic pouches with half a liter in each. We snip the corner of the pouch and pour it into the plastic bottles that fit in a shelf on the refrigerator door. Each day we request skim milk, and the building's attendant says, "Yes, ma'am," with a smile; then each day we're delivered more whole milk. How much plastic and landfill space would we save in the US if we bought our milk, juice, and soda in thin plastic pouches and then used the same bottles again and again?
India and the U.S. have much to learn from one another, all the delightful details of daily life!
...
Adelaide and Owen have finished their first full week at Mt. Carmel School and I've met with both of my classes of graduate students at JNU. We're all looking forward to this weekend's events, sightseeing, shopping, and of course, eating!
Around JNU, the construction workers wear plastic sandals with socks, not steel-toed safety boots. The builders push to mortar into the bricks by hand, not with a trowel. The female construction workers (in saris and sandals) deliver the sand and mortar to the bricklayers via basketloads on their heads, not wheelbarrows.
On every street corner and sidewalk and in every neighborhood, kiosks sell all the items one might find in a convenience store. Here, though, they sell for pennies instead of inflated 7/11 prices. Fruit and vegetable carts are piled high with fresh, brightly colored foods. The carrots here are red, not orange! A bag of carrots and tomatoes cost us just 25 cents.
At the lunch hour--2:00pm, not 12:00 pm--men stop for a quick lunch beside the road, eating a small bowl of vegetable curry instead of a NY hot dog. Each man in the group eating lunch at the roadside vendor's cart drinks directly from a pitcher of water by holding it above their lips and pouring it right in.
Men and women walk to work in the morning wrapped in shawls or draped in light blankets instead of fitted sweaters, coats, or jackets. The look of many layers and colors of draped fabric is so appealing to the eye, and seems to practical where the temperature varies a great deal. How did I ever think of leaving the house during winter without a wrap?
Milk is delivered right to our door in plastic pouches with half a liter in each. We snip the corner of the pouch and pour it into the plastic bottles that fit in a shelf on the refrigerator door. Each day we request skim milk, and the building's attendant says, "Yes, ma'am," with a smile; then each day we're delivered more whole milk. How much plastic and landfill space would we save in the US if we bought our milk, juice, and soda in thin plastic pouches and then used the same bottles again and again?
India and the U.S. have much to learn from one another, all the delightful details of daily life!
...
Adelaide and Owen have finished their first full week at Mt. Carmel School and I've met with both of my classes of graduate students at JNU. We're all looking forward to this weekend's events, sightseeing, shopping, and of course, eating!
Tuesday, January 16, 2007
Our Morning Commute
A taxi pulls up in front of our building at 7:30. The gatekeeper swings open the gate for us, and we come out and get in the taxi. The driver does a U-turn and wheels out into traffic, very light at this early hour. Only school children leave home at this time. The only adults out are street sweepers and other cleaners. As we drive out of our enclave, it’s hard to see other people’s homes and apartments because every block and every home is behind a high wall.
Out on the main street, we drive by shanty towns here and there. These homes are all improvised—one wall of stacked bricks, a plastic roof, some canvas walls, a wooden pole in the center—but they have the look of permanence. You can see inside some of the shacks where there are cots piles high with thick blankets. In one or two places, a cluster of people has been spending the night on the sidewalk, their blankets spread on the pavement. We pass by several small impromptu bonfires built right on the sidewalk from castoff lumber and cardboard boxes; a person or two is warming himself by the fire. We may see a man or two bathing next to his shanty, squatting down, wearing big loose shorts, and pouring water over his head, dipped from a large bucket.
As we get on the large Ring Road, we see a man on the opposite side of the Ring riding on an elephant. It is the first elephant we’ve seen here. We have seen several men using a horse as a normal means of transportation, right in the midst of city traffic.
It’s too early for the sidewalk barbers to be set up and shaving their customers. By 9:00, they’ll be out on the sidewalks, with a chair for the customer, a mirror hung from the fence railing, and an upright box on which they put their basin of water and soap. At this hour, we may see some of yesterday’s laundry left out to dry on the fence railings. The fence that divides one side of the traffic from the other is a many-mile-long clothes line for those with no yard of their own.
Getting off the Ring Road and onto neighborhood streets, the sidewalks, driveways, and doorways are being swept by men and women with long-handled twig brooms. There is a never-ending fight against dust, dirt, and litter here. After sweeping, they’ll swab the sidewalk at the doorway with a bucket of water and the twig broom. Then as passersby come along, the day’s littering begins again. No one seems concerned about using litter baskets.
There are dogs out in the street, most of them browsing through piles of trash on street corners. The dogs aren’t fierce and don’t come up towards people. Most of them are a medium size with either golden fur or black and white mottled fur.
Cows are out on the street, too, though only here and there. They, too, eat from the garbage heaps. The heaps aren’t smelly (though it’s not warm weather yet) and don’t look like old garbage piles, they seem to get renewed daily. The cows are completely unperturbed by the flow of traffic around them. They walk slowly down a street that flowing with the traffic of cars, bicycles, cabs, and motorcycles.
As we approach the school, we see more and more students arriving by foot, car, or bus. They’re all in the maroon and grey Mount Carmel School outfits. Many of the girls have on additional leggings due to the cold winter weather (45 degrees low, 68 degrees high). Many boys and girls are wearing a hat or knit scarf; this degree of cold seems to make them very uncomfortable. The very young children are quite bundled up by their parents.
Adelaide and Owen get out at the school and tell me goodbye, their first day in their uniforms. They are relieved to be wearing the same clothes as everyone else today. The cab driver will return for them at 2:00 this afternoon when school lets out. Mr. Singh, a cabby near the school, has become our driver for now. We have a regular arrangement with him, and we’ll see how it works out after a week or so.
He drives me on to JNU, only 5 minutes’ farther from the Mount Carmel School. Many of the workers are arriving on campus by foot. The taxi stops at the security gate and I call out, “School of International Studies.” They note it in their ledger, and we drive on. Mr. Singh drops me at the Administrative Block, where the only persons in sight are the grounds crew. They all wear warms scarves around their head and winter jackets. The sweeping and raking begins for the day, and will continue all day long.
I enter my office building, dark and unheated. It’s the coldest place in Delhi so far. I am the only faculty member or student in the building. The housekeeping staff look at me questioningly. I feel somewhat embarrassed to be here at 8:10, but here I am. I unlock the padlock to my office door, turn on the light, and look at the bare walls and desk. I’ve arrived. Time to work on my first comments for Thursday’s class. The day has begun.
Out on the main street, we drive by shanty towns here and there. These homes are all improvised—one wall of stacked bricks, a plastic roof, some canvas walls, a wooden pole in the center—but they have the look of permanence. You can see inside some of the shacks where there are cots piles high with thick blankets. In one or two places, a cluster of people has been spending the night on the sidewalk, their blankets spread on the pavement. We pass by several small impromptu bonfires built right on the sidewalk from castoff lumber and cardboard boxes; a person or two is warming himself by the fire. We may see a man or two bathing next to his shanty, squatting down, wearing big loose shorts, and pouring water over his head, dipped from a large bucket.
As we get on the large Ring Road, we see a man on the opposite side of the Ring riding on an elephant. It is the first elephant we’ve seen here. We have seen several men using a horse as a normal means of transportation, right in the midst of city traffic.
It’s too early for the sidewalk barbers to be set up and shaving their customers. By 9:00, they’ll be out on the sidewalks, with a chair for the customer, a mirror hung from the fence railing, and an upright box on which they put their basin of water and soap. At this hour, we may see some of yesterday’s laundry left out to dry on the fence railings. The fence that divides one side of the traffic from the other is a many-mile-long clothes line for those with no yard of their own.
Getting off the Ring Road and onto neighborhood streets, the sidewalks, driveways, and doorways are being swept by men and women with long-handled twig brooms. There is a never-ending fight against dust, dirt, and litter here. After sweeping, they’ll swab the sidewalk at the doorway with a bucket of water and the twig broom. Then as passersby come along, the day’s littering begins again. No one seems concerned about using litter baskets.
There are dogs out in the street, most of them browsing through piles of trash on street corners. The dogs aren’t fierce and don’t come up towards people. Most of them are a medium size with either golden fur or black and white mottled fur.
Cows are out on the street, too, though only here and there. They, too, eat from the garbage heaps. The heaps aren’t smelly (though it’s not warm weather yet) and don’t look like old garbage piles, they seem to get renewed daily. The cows are completely unperturbed by the flow of traffic around them. They walk slowly down a street that flowing with the traffic of cars, bicycles, cabs, and motorcycles.
As we approach the school, we see more and more students arriving by foot, car, or bus. They’re all in the maroon and grey Mount Carmel School outfits. Many of the girls have on additional leggings due to the cold winter weather (45 degrees low, 68 degrees high). Many boys and girls are wearing a hat or knit scarf; this degree of cold seems to make them very uncomfortable. The very young children are quite bundled up by their parents.
Adelaide and Owen get out at the school and tell me goodbye, their first day in their uniforms. They are relieved to be wearing the same clothes as everyone else today. The cab driver will return for them at 2:00 this afternoon when school lets out. Mr. Singh, a cabby near the school, has become our driver for now. We have a regular arrangement with him, and we’ll see how it works out after a week or so.
He drives me on to JNU, only 5 minutes’ farther from the Mount Carmel School. Many of the workers are arriving on campus by foot. The taxi stops at the security gate and I call out, “School of International Studies.” They note it in their ledger, and we drive on. Mr. Singh drops me at the Administrative Block, where the only persons in sight are the grounds crew. They all wear warms scarves around their head and winter jackets. The sweeping and raking begins for the day, and will continue all day long.
I enter my office building, dark and unheated. It’s the coldest place in Delhi so far. I am the only faculty member or student in the building. The housekeeping staff look at me questioningly. I feel somewhat embarrassed to be here at 8:10, but here I am. I unlock the padlock to my office door, turn on the light, and look at the bare walls and desk. I’ve arrived. Time to work on my first comments for Thursday’s class. The day has begun.
Sunday, January 14, 2007
The Wedding Festivities
Here's a post written by Adelaide, describing today's activity:
I think it is unusual to go to a wedding when you have never met the bride or the groom. It is a little more unusual when you don't even know their names. Well, that's what I did today, but don't worry I was invited... One of my mom's friends from Tuscaloosa's cousin was the bride. I still don't know her name or the groom's. Considering the circumstances, I thought it might be a bit awkward. We were the only non-Indians in attendance, and only one person there had met us before. I was pleasantly suprised.
The bride's father welcomed us with open arms like we were old friends; he was so kind.We arrived at 11:00 and the wedding was supposed to start at 11:30 with the arrival of the groom's party. Predictably, however, it started 30-45 minutes late. Like the rules of the road, start times are just suggestions.
The groom's party congregated outside the giant tent and the bride's party blocked the entrance. There was some singing and chanting which I couldn't follow, as it was in Punjabi. They "argued" for a while and then the groom offered some money to the sisters of the bride, which they threw to the ground. Finally, the two parties "reconciled" and exchanged garlands of marigolds and checks. Then, one of the groom's brothers burst through the crowd spraying everyone with fake snow. Pranks seem to be an essential part of the wedding.Then, everyone went in the tent to eat breakfast which consisted of a vast array of fried things and some fruit.
After a while, the bride arrived and was led in under a canopy of roses held up by relatives. She and the groom were seated on two thrones on a platform. Pictures ensued.The bridal color here is red instead of white. Many of the relatives wore pink sarees or turbans. The bride shone with gold adornments. Everywhere you could put jewlery or gold embroidery, it was there. Nose ring. Ear rings. Necklace. Bangles up to the elbows. There were even little jewels above her eyebrows. She also had henna all over her legs and arms. The groom wore a suit and red turban with a full length sword. Sikh men carry daggers as part of the "5 Ks" of their religion (uncut hair, dagger, bracelet, special underwear, comb) , but this was a very ornate and large one.Then, it was time for the actual ceremony. We adjurned to nearby temple.
Only a small portion of the guests could come because it was so small. The father of the bride was kind enough to invite us; I was interested to see what would happen. Before we went in, we took off our shoes and put scarves over our hair. There was a basket outside of extra scarves, but I had one with me. My brother and my dad had these orange, napkin-like things to tie on their heads since they didn't have turbans. It gave them a pirate look. The ceremony seemed long to me because I couldn't understand the Punjabi prayers, speeches, songs, etc.
We sat for a very long time while the bride and groom slowly circled the silver altar; she holding onto his scarf. All of sudden, everyone stood up. I'm not sure what happened after that. I just remember my knees feeling funny (I thought my kneecap was out of socket), and then I felt dizzy and tried to grab my mom's arm. I fainted. When I came out of it, my first though was not to make a scene. I hated to think I had disturbed the wedding. Before I said anything, I put my scarf back over my head. I don't think anyone cared, but I just wanted to be respectful. They let me into their wedding even though many close relatives and friends couldn't come in. Luckily, I was near the back, so most people didn't notice and the ceremony went on. I guess I'll have to go to another one to find out what happens at the end!
After the ceremony, it was time for more food! Lunch! A full vegetarian buffet. Mmmmmm... Fainting sure didn't dampen my appetite. We didn't leave until nearly four o'clock, and most people were still there then. Tomorrow, there is a reception! Yes, the eating is not over yet. Indians sure know how to celebrate!
I think it is unusual to go to a wedding when you have never met the bride or the groom. It is a little more unusual when you don't even know their names. Well, that's what I did today, but don't worry I was invited... One of my mom's friends from Tuscaloosa's cousin was the bride. I still don't know her name or the groom's. Considering the circumstances, I thought it might be a bit awkward. We were the only non-Indians in attendance, and only one person there had met us before. I was pleasantly suprised.
The bride's father welcomed us with open arms like we were old friends; he was so kind.We arrived at 11:00 and the wedding was supposed to start at 11:30 with the arrival of the groom's party. Predictably, however, it started 30-45 minutes late. Like the rules of the road, start times are just suggestions.
The groom's party congregated outside the giant tent and the bride's party blocked the entrance. There was some singing and chanting which I couldn't follow, as it was in Punjabi. They "argued" for a while and then the groom offered some money to the sisters of the bride, which they threw to the ground. Finally, the two parties "reconciled" and exchanged garlands of marigolds and checks. Then, one of the groom's brothers burst through the crowd spraying everyone with fake snow. Pranks seem to be an essential part of the wedding.Then, everyone went in the tent to eat breakfast which consisted of a vast array of fried things and some fruit.
After a while, the bride arrived and was led in under a canopy of roses held up by relatives. She and the groom were seated on two thrones on a platform. Pictures ensued.The bridal color here is red instead of white. Many of the relatives wore pink sarees or turbans. The bride shone with gold adornments. Everywhere you could put jewlery or gold embroidery, it was there. Nose ring. Ear rings. Necklace. Bangles up to the elbows. There were even little jewels above her eyebrows. She also had henna all over her legs and arms. The groom wore a suit and red turban with a full length sword. Sikh men carry daggers as part of the "5 Ks" of their religion (uncut hair, dagger, bracelet, special underwear, comb) , but this was a very ornate and large one.Then, it was time for the actual ceremony. We adjurned to nearby temple.
Only a small portion of the guests could come because it was so small. The father of the bride was kind enough to invite us; I was interested to see what would happen. Before we went in, we took off our shoes and put scarves over our hair. There was a basket outside of extra scarves, but I had one with me. My brother and my dad had these orange, napkin-like things to tie on their heads since they didn't have turbans. It gave them a pirate look. The ceremony seemed long to me because I couldn't understand the Punjabi prayers, speeches, songs, etc.
We sat for a very long time while the bride and groom slowly circled the silver altar; she holding onto his scarf. All of sudden, everyone stood up. I'm not sure what happened after that. I just remember my knees feeling funny (I thought my kneecap was out of socket), and then I felt dizzy and tried to grab my mom's arm. I fainted. When I came out of it, my first though was not to make a scene. I hated to think I had disturbed the wedding. Before I said anything, I put my scarf back over my head. I don't think anyone cared, but I just wanted to be respectful. They let me into their wedding even though many close relatives and friends couldn't come in. Luckily, I was near the back, so most people didn't notice and the ceremony went on. I guess I'll have to go to another one to find out what happens at the end!
After the ceremony, it was time for more food! Lunch! A full vegetarian buffet. Mmmmmm... Fainting sure didn't dampen my appetite. We didn't leave until nearly four o'clock, and most people were still there then. Tomorrow, there is a reception! Yes, the eating is not over yet. Indians sure know how to celebrate!
Saturday, January 13, 2007
We have a home in Delhi!
Thursday afternoon this week, we moved into our apartment for the duration of our stay in Delhi. Our address is A2/147 Safdurjung Enclave, and yes, we have trouble pronouncing it, too! We had chosen another apartment because this one was too, too expensive...but the landlord preferred us to take this one, and offered it to us at a rent that we just couldn't refuse. S0, we now have a 3 bedroom, 4 bathroom, marble-floored apartment with daily service and 24 hour security. We feel a bit like we're living in a luxury hotel! The apartment is entirely newly fitted and decorated; the bathrooms are especially stylish. The young men who work here and clean the apartment are very friendly and helpful. They don't understand as much English as we'd like. They answer all questions with a smile and a "Yes, Ma'am!" even if it's not a yes or no question.
We had a lovely day today exploring the park nearest to our apartment. It will be a great running option, given that JNU is a 15 minute taxi ride away. We also got Owen's hair cut (prinicipal's orders) for school on Monday, and bought an Indian outfit for Adelaide to wear to a friend's family wedding tomorrow.
Today is Lohri, a Punjabi festival that's much like Halloween. People have made bonfires on the sidewalks and are eating peanuts and popcorn. It's fun to watch the festivities from our balcony.
We can't wait for our coming visitors to enjoy our beautiful apartment with us. We are ready to welcome and share this 5-star experience with Cade, Liz and Rick, the Thomases, Ted and Ericka, and all others who visit us in Delhi!
We had a lovely day today exploring the park nearest to our apartment. It will be a great running option, given that JNU is a 15 minute taxi ride away. We also got Owen's hair cut (prinicipal's orders) for school on Monday, and bought an Indian outfit for Adelaide to wear to a friend's family wedding tomorrow.
Today is Lohri, a Punjabi festival that's much like Halloween. People have made bonfires on the sidewalks and are eating peanuts and popcorn. It's fun to watch the festivities from our balcony.
We can't wait for our coming visitors to enjoy our beautiful apartment with us. We are ready to welcome and share this 5-star experience with Cade, Liz and Rick, the Thomases, Ted and Ericka, and all others who visit us in Delhi!
Wednesday, January 10, 2007
So, How's the Food?
We've already been asked by email about the food, the water, and the state of our health in India. Good news...no, great news! The food is delicious, inexpensive, varied, and oh so tasty! Bottled water is also readily available everywhere. "Mineral water" is what you request in a restaurant, shop, or canteen. As a result, none of us is even slightly ill (yet?).
We stayed in a Guest House (3-star ; fairly modest; excellent service) for the first 4 nights here. There were many restaurants to choose from in the market--or shopping street--10 minutes' walk from the Guest House. There was also a perfectly wonderful French bakery! Guess where we had breakfast for four mornings in a row??!! Otherwise, we ate South Indian, North Indian, and Thai food. John and Owen were bold enough to eat a grilled chicken gyro from a street stall, with no ill effects.
For the last three days, we have been staying in a Guest House on the JNU campus. We've learned that the cost of living for all students in India is heavily subsidized. Not only is food ridiculously inexpensive here, but the dormitory costs $1 per month and the tuition is similarly low. One professor told us that graduate students prolong their studies excessively because of the low cost of living that can't be found anywhere else in India.
We have been eating in the student canteen which serves South Indian food. We all love a masala dosa: a large, thin, crispy crepe filled with curried potatoes and served with a small cup of delicious soup. The cost of this delicacy at the student canteen? 24 cents!! John and I ate dinner there last night and spent less than a dollar between the two of us, including the liter of mineral water!
We hope to enjoy many tasty meals, student-style, while we're here.
This afternoon we're moving into our permanent apartment. What's that like? Ah, that will require a separate blog posting!!
We stayed in a Guest House (3-star ; fairly modest; excellent service) for the first 4 nights here. There were many restaurants to choose from in the market--or shopping street--10 minutes' walk from the Guest House. There was also a perfectly wonderful French bakery! Guess where we had breakfast for four mornings in a row??!! Otherwise, we ate South Indian, North Indian, and Thai food. John and Owen were bold enough to eat a grilled chicken gyro from a street stall, with no ill effects.
For the last three days, we have been staying in a Guest House on the JNU campus. We've learned that the cost of living for all students in India is heavily subsidized. Not only is food ridiculously inexpensive here, but the dormitory costs $1 per month and the tuition is similarly low. One professor told us that graduate students prolong their studies excessively because of the low cost of living that can't be found anywhere else in India.
We have been eating in the student canteen which serves South Indian food. We all love a masala dosa: a large, thin, crispy crepe filled with curried potatoes and served with a small cup of delicious soup. The cost of this delicacy at the student canteen? 24 cents!! John and I ate dinner there last night and spent less than a dollar between the two of us, including the liter of mineral water!
We hope to enjoy many tasty meals, student-style, while we're here.
This afternoon we're moving into our permanent apartment. What's that like? Ah, that will require a separate blog posting!!
Monday, January 8, 2007
Catching our Breath after 5 Days in Delhi
We have spent 5 days and nights in Delhi now, and though I can't say that we're accustomed to it, I can say that we're adjusting well to it! We are staying at a guest house on the JNU campus, slightly spartan hotel-like accomodations. The best part is that the guest house is in the midst of the JNU campus, 1000 acres of virtually no traffic, winding roads through a park-like setting, fresh air, and quiet surroundings. It will likely be the best place for the four of us to do our running throughout our four-month stay in Delhi. I've met many of my new colleagues in the Center for Canadian, American, and Latin American Studies in the School of International Studies at JNU. I'll be team teaching two courses, which will give me the opportunity to travel elsewhere outside of Delhi to lecture or meet with Indian academics. JNU will no doubt take advantage of John's availability and get a lecture or two from him, as well.
Life in Delhi is very, very colorful, as I tried to hint at in my first Delhi blog entry. Every taxi and bus has a vivid painting on its rear side, saying, "Honk Please! Stay back! Stop!," and featuring a blackhaired, tongue-protruding gargoyle-like creature who must be the deity of all traffic mischief. Every street is an impromptu bazaar of vendors of everything from fruits to coconuts to houseplants to large basketry to pairs of new socks! The beggars are everywhere, some just begging and some doing tricks for money. Mostly we encounter them when in taxis. The one or two lepers we've seen begging have been truly sobering sights.
We hope to move into our permanent apartment and have schools selected by the end of this week--but that may just be the efficient American in me speaking, not the person who must now be operating on Indian Time.
I'll post pictures as soon as time and technology permit! For now, all's "thik-thik," OK!
Life in Delhi is very, very colorful, as I tried to hint at in my first Delhi blog entry. Every taxi and bus has a vivid painting on its rear side, saying, "Honk Please! Stay back! Stop!," and featuring a blackhaired, tongue-protruding gargoyle-like creature who must be the deity of all traffic mischief. Every street is an impromptu bazaar of vendors of everything from fruits to coconuts to houseplants to large basketry to pairs of new socks! The beggars are everywhere, some just begging and some doing tricks for money. Mostly we encounter them when in taxis. The one or two lepers we've seen begging have been truly sobering sights.
We hope to move into our permanent apartment and have schools selected by the end of this week--but that may just be the efficient American in me speaking, not the person who must now be operating on Indian Time.
I'll post pictures as soon as time and technology permit! For now, all's "thik-thik," OK!
Sunday, January 7, 2007
First Sights in India
We have been in India just over three days. The sights and sounds are overwhelming--but in a good way. I can't compose at length at the moment (the power in this internet cafe may blink off again) but here is a montage of what we've seen in just three days: sacred cows, peacocks, monkeys, & parrots, all just walking/leaping/flying around in the open; horse-drawn carts; a family of four in heavy traffic riding on one small motorcycle; sidewalk barbers with straight edge razors; a traffic island that's been turned into a permanent settlement of ramshackle houses; a barefooted, three-year old girl turning backflips in the midst of traffic beside our taxi, then tapping on our taxi window for alms; pedicabs, cars, vans, trucks, taxis, three-wheeled autorickshaws, & motorscooters that give a whole new meaning to the term "bumper to bumper traffic"; a delicious plate of food for 25 cents; sidewalk vendors of anything; crumbling Moghul tombs; every color combination of sari, salwhar kahmeeze, scarf, and shawl that you can imagine; tiny shops that hold 100 square feet of goods in just 50 square feet of shop space; Sikhs, Muslims, Buddhists, and Hindus in acts of devotion and worship; flowers, flowers, flowers; and more!
I have to stop here, but I hope to expand on these first impressions as soon as time and the electricity supply allow.
I have to stop here, but I hope to expand on these first impressions as soon as time and the electricity supply allow.
Wednesday, January 3, 2007
Tuesday, January 2, 2007
Days 2-7 in Amman
We have been busy! Leslie, Gray, and Natalie took us on a drive down to the Dead Sea and then up to Mount Nebo on Thursday. The view of the Sea was magnificent, but I'm not sure that if I'd been Moses, I'd have found the Promised Land so promising looking. Thousands of years ago it must have been a more lush and green setting. We enjoyed a long, lingering lunch at Leslie's favorite restaurant in Madaba, called Haret Joudna. We ordered nearly everything on the menu just to sample all the Middle Eastern delicacies. We returned home that evening to pack for our big excursion to the south.
Friday, Bill was off from work as usual and able to help us load up for the four day excursion. Our trip to the Dana wildlife area was cancelled due to impassable roads covered with snow and no electricity!! We decided to add on an extra day in Petra. We arrived at Petra late in the afternoon (about a 3-4 hour drive from Amman) and walked around the city for a view. Gray, Natalie, and Owen were busily engaged in snowball fights! With a long evening ahead, we ALL decided to try a Turkish Bath. The hotel clerk recommended an establishment...which turned out to be the ONLY co-ed Turkish Bath in all of the Middle East, I'd guess. The hotel clerk had assured us it was separate-genders, but it wasn't. After we got there and found out, we shrugged our shoulders and decided to take the plunge. It was crowded with Europeans in their swimsuits who didn't bat an eye at the co-ed situation, but knowing the Middle Easterners' sensibilities, it was probably a scandalous setting. We enjoyed the steaminess for over an hour, kids included. Leslie and I skipped the full body loofah rubdown and massage, but everyone else partook. What an adventurous bunch!
The next morning dawned crystal clear in Petra, picture-perfect conditions. The temperature was cool but not cold, with not a puff a wind. We started the long walk into the chasm about 8:45 am. It's such an exciting place to visit, there's nowhere like it in the world. John read that the narrow winding canyon that leads into the valley was actually cleft by an earthquake, not erosion as you'd guess. That makes it all the more incredible.
We all experienced that moment of wonder when you emerge from the mile-long walk through the canyon into the wide open view of the towering Treasury building. It's unbelievable that workers 1700 to 2000 years ago could've carved such towering majesties out of the stone.
I won't go on and on about all the fabulous sites we saw in Petra--I'll try to post a powerpoint show to do justice to them--but I will say that we spent two full days there, going from height to height and sight to sight. The little ones, Gray and Natalie, did a fantastic job on our long and arudous upward hikes, encouraged along all the way by Adelaide and Owen and regular infusions of potato chips and oranges.
Monday morning we headed out of Petra on the high road towards the Wadi Rum desert. Much to our surprise, the road was still quite snowy, and got down to a single lane of tire tracks along the ridgeline. After an hour, we saw stranded cars ahead and decided to circle back. We didn't have to backtrack the entire way, but we were a bit late meeting our guide at the village entrance to Wadi Rum. We grabbed some bag lunches at the village and scoured the mini-market for snacks, then jumped into a red-scarfed Bedouin's four-wheel drive vehicle and headed out overland. This desert with high sandstone mountains is every bit as beautiful as any parts of the U.S.'s desert southwest I've ever seen.
At our tented campsite, we met up with another family of four, friends of Bill and Leslie's. Part of the group jumped in a jeep to go for a hike, and part stayed at the based camp for fun and games in the sand. We undertook an almost two hour upward hike to a breathtaking view of the desert for miles around. We actually stepped over into Saudi Arabian territory at the top of the mountain, no passport needed. Ha, ha, there was not one human being in sight from that vista at the top of the mountain. We could also see the tip of the Red Sea from the pinnacle. I promise to post pictures once I download them--unbelievable views!!
We spent the night like bedouins in a large tent for 12 persons. Bedouin men cooked a full meal for us (men do all the work, including shopping, women stay at home almost all the time here) which we all enjoyed. The temperature plunged below freezing after dark. We slept on thin mattresses under thick heavy blankets, once we all stopped laughing and telling stories in the dark inside the tent. I for one stayed cold, especially on my nose and toes, but everyone else claimed to be warm enough. Breakfast was pita bread toasted over a campfire, inedible jelly (think cough syrup in jellied form), and hard boiled eggs. We all took a two hour morning walk (no more hills, thank you) and then loaded up the jeeps.
Back in the village we bought nuts and chocolate for the return drive. We left behind the specatacle of Petra, the wondrous desert, and the unexpected snow for the comfort of Bill and Leslie's spacious apartment, Kimani's warm soup, and some tasty foods from the chicken and falafel stalls. We just went from one great thing to the next.
Today we're off to see one last site near Amman, then prepare the five hour flight overnight to Delhi. We'll be sleepy but the jet lag will be much, much less with the adjustment to Jordan's time zone over the last week.
Hope everyone enjoyed the holidays and the first few days of 2007---we certainly did.
Onward to India!
Friday, Bill was off from work as usual and able to help us load up for the four day excursion. Our trip to the Dana wildlife area was cancelled due to impassable roads covered with snow and no electricity!! We decided to add on an extra day in Petra. We arrived at Petra late in the afternoon (about a 3-4 hour drive from Amman) and walked around the city for a view. Gray, Natalie, and Owen were busily engaged in snowball fights! With a long evening ahead, we ALL decided to try a Turkish Bath. The hotel clerk recommended an establishment...which turned out to be the ONLY co-ed Turkish Bath in all of the Middle East, I'd guess. The hotel clerk had assured us it was separate-genders, but it wasn't. After we got there and found out, we shrugged our shoulders and decided to take the plunge. It was crowded with Europeans in their swimsuits who didn't bat an eye at the co-ed situation, but knowing the Middle Easterners' sensibilities, it was probably a scandalous setting. We enjoyed the steaminess for over an hour, kids included. Leslie and I skipped the full body loofah rubdown and massage, but everyone else partook. What an adventurous bunch!
The next morning dawned crystal clear in Petra, picture-perfect conditions. The temperature was cool but not cold, with not a puff a wind. We started the long walk into the chasm about 8:45 am. It's such an exciting place to visit, there's nowhere like it in the world. John read that the narrow winding canyon that leads into the valley was actually cleft by an earthquake, not erosion as you'd guess. That makes it all the more incredible.
We all experienced that moment of wonder when you emerge from the mile-long walk through the canyon into the wide open view of the towering Treasury building. It's unbelievable that workers 1700 to 2000 years ago could've carved such towering majesties out of the stone.
I won't go on and on about all the fabulous sites we saw in Petra--I'll try to post a powerpoint show to do justice to them--but I will say that we spent two full days there, going from height to height and sight to sight. The little ones, Gray and Natalie, did a fantastic job on our long and arudous upward hikes, encouraged along all the way by Adelaide and Owen and regular infusions of potato chips and oranges.
Monday morning we headed out of Petra on the high road towards the Wadi Rum desert. Much to our surprise, the road was still quite snowy, and got down to a single lane of tire tracks along the ridgeline. After an hour, we saw stranded cars ahead and decided to circle back. We didn't have to backtrack the entire way, but we were a bit late meeting our guide at the village entrance to Wadi Rum. We grabbed some bag lunches at the village and scoured the mini-market for snacks, then jumped into a red-scarfed Bedouin's four-wheel drive vehicle and headed out overland. This desert with high sandstone mountains is every bit as beautiful as any parts of the U.S.'s desert southwest I've ever seen.
At our tented campsite, we met up with another family of four, friends of Bill and Leslie's. Part of the group jumped in a jeep to go for a hike, and part stayed at the based camp for fun and games in the sand. We undertook an almost two hour upward hike to a breathtaking view of the desert for miles around. We actually stepped over into Saudi Arabian territory at the top of the mountain, no passport needed. Ha, ha, there was not one human being in sight from that vista at the top of the mountain. We could also see the tip of the Red Sea from the pinnacle. I promise to post pictures once I download them--unbelievable views!!
We spent the night like bedouins in a large tent for 12 persons. Bedouin men cooked a full meal for us (men do all the work, including shopping, women stay at home almost all the time here) which we all enjoyed. The temperature plunged below freezing after dark. We slept on thin mattresses under thick heavy blankets, once we all stopped laughing and telling stories in the dark inside the tent. I for one stayed cold, especially on my nose and toes, but everyone else claimed to be warm enough. Breakfast was pita bread toasted over a campfire, inedible jelly (think cough syrup in jellied form), and hard boiled eggs. We all took a two hour morning walk (no more hills, thank you) and then loaded up the jeeps.
Back in the village we bought nuts and chocolate for the return drive. We left behind the specatacle of Petra, the wondrous desert, and the unexpected snow for the comfort of Bill and Leslie's spacious apartment, Kimani's warm soup, and some tasty foods from the chicken and falafel stalls. We just went from one great thing to the next.
Today we're off to see one last site near Amman, then prepare the five hour flight overnight to Delhi. We'll be sleepy but the jet lag will be much, much less with the adjustment to Jordan's time zone over the last week.
Hope everyone enjoyed the holidays and the first few days of 2007---we certainly did.
Onward to India!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
